Many of the newer automobiles use a magnetic sensor (cps) to determine where the pistons are in the engine. It uses the information gathered from a conglomeration of sensors, to determine the spark and fuel timing. When the sensor goes out, the car can not decide when and how to mix the spark and fuel.
TEST THE SENSOR
The crank position sensor often causes an intermittent failure of the cars operation. To include stalling after warm up, and failure to start until a cool down period occurs. IF THE CAR WILL START WHILE COLD ATTEMPT TO PULL CODES FROM THE EMISSION CONTROL COMPUTER
I WILL WRITE THAT PROCEDURE NEXT AND PROVIDE A LINK TO IT. THE DIAGNOSTIC PLUG IS UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL ( UNDER THE DASH) THE TOP MOST, RIGHT MOST, CONNECTORS ARE PIN A AND B , CROSSING THEM WITH ENGINE RUNNING PROVIDES CODES THAT EXCLUDE NO CRANK POSITION SENSOR. I SAY THIS BECAUSE IF THE CAR DOES NOT RUN, THERE WILL BE NO CPS READING DUE TO THE ENGINE NOT ROTATING
1.)
To test the crank position sensor you will need to locate the coil packs (Where the plug wires all meet together). Once you locate the coil pack you will note their are six plug wires and seven to nine 18gauge wires attached with either 2 or 3 plug connectors. On the same end as the five wired connector; There will be a 3 wire connector ( 2 18 gauge and a 22 gauge for the tachometer)
2.)
Unplug this sensor and the five wire plug to prevent the accidental starting of the engine.
3.)
Attach a volt ohm meter between the two 18 gauge wires. There should be a serious amount of resistance not equal to the test leads initial value, or a zero reading. Then ask an assistant to rotate the engine with the key. You should witness the changing of the resistance between the two conductors as the engine rotates.
4.)
The sensor cost about $22.00 at the local O'Reiley's. Some of the newer cars have two CPS; one behind the harmonic balance pulley and the one I am speaking of on this model. From under the car, look between the engine block and the trans-axle . Roughly dead center of the engine block ( below the exhaust port of the center cylinder) will be a simple 2 wire plug connector approximately three inches above the " oil pan to block mating location". That is your target!
5.)
Jack up the car securely!
Raise the car to a point where you can comfortably crawl / slither behind the passengers wheel.
6.)
The 5/16 " bolt that holds the sensor in place will most likely be the least likely savior for you. LEFTY LOOSEY will remove the bolt and in theory allow you to remove the sensor. After removing the bolt, and the snapped together connector.
Here is the part that will either make you smile or cry!
7.)
VERY CAREFULLY TRY TO GET A PAIR OF CHANNEL LOCKS ON THE SENSOR'S BASE AND TWIST IT EVER SO SLIGHTLY SIDE TO SIDE UNTIL IT SPINS FREELY.
This part is subject to extreme heat and becomes very brittle. It cracks, expands, and nearly welds itself into its hole. So be careful. Lets face it though; The sensor may break without ever coming out of the hole, and it may need some more effort to remove it. Now you must prepare to remove the oil pan.
8.)
Take the battery positive off the terminal with the same lefty loosey technique .
9.)
Remove the two 15mm bolts holding the starter and the three 10mm bolts holding the plastic inspection shield between the engine and transmission.
10.)
Drain the engine oil into a drain pan by removing the drain plug located on the center rear / right side of the engine oil pan AND REPLACE THE DRAIN PLUG!
11.)
Remove all of the nuts and bolts from the oil pan ( about ten) 10mm Note that the bolt size is larger on two of them and they will have to go in the rear of the pan when re-installed
12.)
Place a jack on the transmission pan ....directly under pan bolts ( please do not crush your transmission pan by lifting the car with the jack K)
13.)
Your goal here is simply to create a space between the frame of the car and the oil pan, so that it may be lowered at the transmission end and slid back or to the drivers side of the car.
14.)
Lower the pan and note that the crank position sensor is accessible from inside the engine block. You will now have a place to pound out the sensor using a screwdriver and hammer.
15.)
Now after that is accomplished ..if the gasket is in any way damaged....replace it. completely clean the pan surface and the block surface and use a sealing agent or gasket glue to hold the replacement gasket in place during re assembly. Clean the pan of any metal shavings on the magnets ( if provided) and continue re assembly in reverse of dis assembly.
16.)
Snug down all of your pan bolts in a form of inner to outer criss crosses ( like a tire tightening ) to a snug tension on a standard 1/4" drive ratchet..(use the righty tighty method) . Make note that the little metal washer looking pieces are marked as to what side the nut goes on...NO POINT IN SNUGGING THEM ANY FURTHER THAN SLIGHTLY EXPANDING THE GASKET SEALER
17.)
Re-install the starter with the two 15mm bolts using the righty tighty method. Make sure they are tight. Try and picture how tight they were for removal. Snug them down well but do not try and break the socket k
18.)
Re install the inspection cover with it's three bolts an prepare to crawl out
Did you plug in the sensor?
Did you put it's 5/16" bolt in for retaining the sensor?
Is the oil plug back in the oil pan?
Are all of the bolts tight?
19.)
Crawl out from under the car and pour roughly 4 quarts of new oil, or recycle the old oil back into the engine
20.)
Make sure sensor is plugged in where it was tested at the coil pack
21.)
Make sure the five wire connector is also plugged in.
22.)
Place the positive terminal back on the battery
Mental notes
Oil full? (check a few times as the windage tray in the pan delays the sinking of oil to the bottom of the pan
Sensor plugged in below?
Sensor plugged in at ecm? Coil packs?
Coil packs plugged in?
Lower the engine jack?
Lower the car to the ground?
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